Summer And Wine
© by Scott Gunerman
Summer is here and with it comes hotter temperatures and higher levels of humidity - conditions that can make it quite challenging to enjoy that glass of wine you've been wanting. Never fear ... The Brat is here to guide you to summer friendly wines ... some are pink and some are, well, not pink. Stay cool this summer and don't let the heat melt your love of the vine ...
Rosé is OK!Rosé (rhymes with okay), more or less, is just a fancy alternative name for pink wines. Another term commonly used, although usually reserved for inexpensive, sweeter styles, is blush. Call me a wine snob if you wish (wouldn't be the first time), but when I hear the word blush, I think of cheap, generic, sickly sweet wine sold in large format jugs and five liter boxes - gross! But that's just me. If that style works for you by all means go for it - those wines are a heck of a lot cheaper (and easier to find) than the traditional rosé style I'm going to discuss this week ...
What makes it pink? Winemaking 101 tells us that red wines get their color from contact with the skins ... the longer the juice sits with the skins the more color the wine will have. So, to make a wine pink, the skin is in contact with the juice for just a short time (hours compared to days or weeks for "regular" red wines). In addition to color, the skin also impart tannins into the wine - again, because there is very little skin contact, there will be very little tannin in rosés. Hence, you can chill them and drink them just like you would a white wine. Of course there are many other variables involved but that's all you really need to know about how pink wines are made.
Dry rosés are classic wines to enjoy in the summer - they're light in body (and alcohol), fruity, refreshing, can be drunk well chilled, go with just about any food, perfect for picnics, relatively inexpensive (no need to spend more than $10-$15) and just plain fun to drink. Rosés are meant to be drunk young while the fruit is still fresh - always, always, always look for the youngest vintage you can find.
How do you know if that pink wine on the shelf is sweet? Read the back label - often it will give you some hints about the wine, such as "dry", "semi-sweet" or "off-dry". Avoid 1.5L, 3L, 4L jugs and 5L boxes! Look for the region the wine is made in on the label - Anjou, Bandol, Tavel and Provence are all famous wine regions in France that make huge quantities of dry rosé. Be extra careful with bottles from the United States (most are sweet) - examine the bottle carefully and look for the word "dry" - if you don't see it, ask for help in the store (or send me an e-mail at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com).
Wine and KiwiAnother refreshing summer alternative hails from the Southern Hemisphere - a region that offers crisp, refreshing, aromatic white wines full of flavor and personality and with a price tag that is also easy on the wallet. Often overlooked and still considered a "specialty category" or "niche region", it delivers the goods on a consistent basis - NEW ZEALAND. If you're looking to beat the summer heat, you owe it to yourself to get to know these wines.
New Zealand consists of two islands in the Tasman Sea, off the eastern coast of Australia. Grapes are grown all over the North and South islands, however, the best fruit comes from the regions with moderate climates.
NZ's most successful white grape varieties are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling. By far, Sauvignon Blanc is the country's star performer - producing intense, aromatic, fruit driven wines balanced with razor sharp acidity. NZ's best Sauvignon Blancs can compete with the world's finest wines made from this variety. Although $10 won't get you a bottle of the legendary Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (retailing at $25+, it is often given credit as the wine that put NZ on the wine's world stage in the late 1980's), it can get you a high quality bottle of thoroughly enjoyable wine with all of the characteristics that have made wines from NZ so trendy today. The most important region for Sauvignon Blanc is Marlborough, located on the northern tip of the South Island. Stony soils and cool maritime breezes combine to provide the ideal environment for Sauvignon Blanc to thrive.
Because of the generally cool climate in NZ, both Chardonnay and Riesling also perform well. Each is made in a variety of styles with abundant fruit to balance naturally high levels of acidity. Bargains can be found here too - mostly due to a weak New Zealand dollar and a strong export market to the United Kingdom and the United States.
Red varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are also grown all over NZ, but, due to the cooler climates the grapes can have trouble ripening, especially if Mother Nature does not cooperate. As a result, most NZ reds are lighter in body, color and flavor. In addition, red wines are expensive for the quality they deliver. Pinot Noir, noted for growing well in cooler locations, is all the rage in NZ right now and is already the third most planted variety (following Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) in the country.
In general terms, I would avoid NZ reds for now. I'm sure some are quite good, however, the price will undoubtedly be much higher than their prized white wines. If you're looking for a special bottle to splurge on this summer, I highly recommend Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. I had a chance to taste it last summer and the empty bottle still sits in my wine rack as a souvenir. If the price is too steep, don't despair - there are easily 10 or more other brands that are heavily exported to the United States. Just like Lays potato chips, you won't be able to have just one ...
Tasting Notes - hey, give me a break! I'm not Robert Parker Jr.!2000 Windsor Vineyards rosé du Soleil Private Reserve - California: Ruby red color - just like a glass of Kool-Aid. Fruity nose - citrus / strawberry / raspberry. Light body (11.5% alcohol) and juicy - this is pure fruit and very smooth and tasty. It looks and smells like it's going to be sweet, but it's actually dry. Think strawberry lemonade. This style of wine ideal with picnics and when dining informally at a sidewalk café. One of the best roses I've ever had. Unfortunately, this wine is not available unless you are a member of the Windsor Vineyards Wine Club.
About Windsor Vineyards: $29.95 (includes tax + shipping) gets you two bottles of wine, shipped direct from the winery to your front door. Windsor only sells wine through mail order - you can't find their wine at retail anyplace, unless you visit one of their tasting rooms. In the 2 years-plus that I've been a member, I can honestly only remember two or three bottles that I did not care for. If you've never been in a wine club before, I highly recommend this one, and no, they are not paying me to say this. Go to http://www.windsorvineyards.com for more information.
2000 Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, New Zealand: Pale/watery color. Nose is full of citrus, lemon/lime and flowers - very aromatic. On the palate it is dry, crisp and zingy with lots of fruit - very refreshing especially on a hot day. This one is pure and intense fruit - typical style for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. $9.99.
Other reliable producers from NZ include Dashwood, Stoneleigh, Nobilo, Babich, Cooper's Creek, Selaks, and Villa Maria. Always remember to buy the youngest vintage you can find. That’s it, finally! Thanks for the visit. As always, please feel free to write me at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com with your comments, questions and suggestions. Everyone gets a reply! All feedback is welcomed and appreciated.
See ya next time from the cellar, and remember wine is more fun than you think...
Gunerman writes "The Brat In The Cellar" monthly for the Rochester, NY chapter of Wine Brats. The column is featured on Robin Garr's WineLoverPage.com and mirrored at www.BratintheCellar.com.
Also available is "The Brat Report", a weekly subscription based wine newsletter designed to educate and entertain. "The Brat Report" is available for $12/year. To subscribe, send a check/money order along with a valid e/mail address to: The Brat In The Cellar, PO Box 462, Pittsford, NY 14534. Have questions? Want to see a free sample? Send an e-mail to thebratreport@hotmail.com. Everyone gets a reply!
Volume Two
Number 6
June 27, 2002
