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Wine Brats Fox Run in the Finger Lakes
© 2000 by Scott Gunerman
Welcome back and thanks for stopping by. In this edition, we'll focus on one of the most popular and highly acclaimed wineries in New York's Finger Lakes District - Fox Run Vineyards. We'll explore the past, present and future of Fox Run and also throw in some tasting notes for good measure. Questions or comments? - drop a line at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com. Everyone gets a reply!

Fox Run Vineyards [670 Rt. 14 in Penn Yan, NY 14527, 1-800-636-9786, http://www.foxrunvineyards.com, is gaining a reputation for producing not only some of the best wines in New York State, but wines on a world class level as well. Don't believe me? Contact Robert M. Parker, Jr. [yes, that Robert Parker] or thumb through some recent editions of Wine Spectator and you can see for yourself. These guys are producing some serious stuff from a place that was once known only for "grapey," sweet, bulk wines not so long ago.

Fox Run was founded in 1990 by a retired couple that wanted to relax in their golden years and make a little wine on the side. About three years later, they discovered that running a winery was anything but relaxing and they agreed to sell the property to Scott Osborn- currently co-owner and President of Fox Run Vineyards.

Osborn has been in the wine industry since 1980, beginning by hand labeling bottles in California. Throughout the 1980's, Osborn found himself involved in all aspects of the industry, ranging from working on the bottling line to Cellar Master to a sales position with a distributor in Buffalo, NY and then on to become the General Manager at Pindar on Long Island. At one time Osborn had ties to Lane Tanner; one of California's most talented and only one of a few female winemakers.

While Osborn was working at Pindar, a family illness led to a leave of absence. While he was away from the operation, he was approached about taking over a small winery in the Finger Lakes and has not looked back ever since. One important decision that has led Fox Run to the forefront of the New York wine scene was the addition of Winemaker Peter Bell.

Born and raised in Canada, Bell began his international career in Australia where he earned a degree in enology from Charles Sturt University in New South Wales. After graduation he became Assistant Winemaker for Hunter's Wines in New Zealand. Upon leaving New Zealand, Bell turned down offers from Portugal and British Columbia for the natural beauty and outstanding potential of the Finger Lakes. He spent his first five years in New York as Winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, then moved over to Fox Run in 1995 and has been there ever since.

In 2000, Fox Run produced between 17,000 - 18,000 cases of wine. Roughly 8,000 cases were comprised of Chardonnay and Riesling - many other varieties including Lemberger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Gewürztraminer account for the remainder of the annual production. Currently Fox Run has 60 acres of vines in production with an additional 15 coming on-line over the next few years. The additional acreage will put Fox Run's annual production in the 20,000 - 25,000 case range.

In 2001 the winery completed a major expansion project. The facility now has an additional 2200 square feet in the gift shop, tasting room and a beautiful patio overlooking the vineyards. Part of the expansion also included the opening of The Café at Fox Run, serving daily from 11-5. Gourmet soups, salads and sandwiches are prepared fresh daily - all from local ingredients and local farmers' produce. An extensive list of wines by the glass is also available. The expansion was completed just in time for the busy summer/fall tourist season. Osborn expects to see approximately 65,000 visitors come through his doors this year and also to pour about 500 cases of wine for the winery's complimentary tasting.

In the future Osborn will be working on developing key accounts in the New York City market. Presently Charmer Industries is Fox Run's NYC distributor and progress has been very steady. "We have to be very careful with our business in New York - there's no way we can make enough wine to meet the potential demand if everyone suddenly wanted Fox Run wines," said Osborn. "95% of our production is sold within 50 miles of the winery."

Another project that keeps the folks at Fox Run busy is working with their vineyards and learning which varietals will perform best in the Finger Lakes area. Several grape varieties have already been planted and they are all closely managed to monitor the results. "We're using a shotgun approach right now - we're going to put a bunch of varieties in the ground and watch them over the next ten years and we'll figure out what we can do best with," said Osborn. "At that point we'll have a little better idea of what we should specialize in. The industry is still young here - we're still in the pioneering phase."

Fox Run Vineyards, located on the west side of Seneca Lake, is open 10-6 Mon-Sat and 11-6 Sunday. Tours are offered daily and tastings are complimentary. Contact the winery for upcoming special events and new releases. I highly recommend you put this winery on your list of places to visit next time you are in the Finger Lakes Region - great wine, great food, great people and a spectacular view - what else could you ask for?

TASTING NOTES - hey, give me a break - I'm not Robert Parker, Jr.!

1999 Fox Run Chardonnay: Pears, apples and spice dominate this wine. Long, soft finish - .5% RS. Smooth and tasty

1999 Fox Run Reserve Pinot Noir: Rich and lush. Violets, dark cherry and spice on the nose. Soft and smooth on the palate. Wonderfully smooth

1999 Fox Run Dry Riesling: Fresh ripe fruit on the nose. Think apricots, fresh flowers and a hint of lime. Perfect as an apéritif

1999 Fox Run Gewürztraminer: Perfumed nose - roses/lychees/spices explode from the glass. Big flavors on the palate with a rich finish - this is world class!

1998 Fox Run Meritage: Deep brick red color, this complex wine is fruity and rich with cherries, plums and raspberries framed by smoky oak. Deep and dense, with loads of flavor on the palate. Amazing example of the potential in Finger Lakes red wines. 87 pts. - Robert M. Parker Jr.'s The Wine Advocate

That's it, finally! Thanks for the visit. Please feel free to write me at cellarbrat1@yahoo.com with your comments, questions and suggestions. Everyone gets a reply! All feedback is welcomed and appreciated. Know someone that likes wine? Send 'em the link - I'd love to increase my circulation to double digits! See ya next time from the cellar, and remember wine is more fun than you think.

Gunerman writes "The Brat In The Cellar" twice per month for the Rochester, NY chapter of Wine Brats, found at www.ggw.org/winebrats/. Wine Brats is a national non-profit organization based in California. They are an active group of adult wine enthusiasts who are mostly young in age but absolutely young at heart. Wine Brats enjoy sharing their passion for wine with their peers and take pride in breaking down the cultural walls that for too long have mystified this beautiful beverage. Ultimately, as a non-profit organization, the Brats' purpose is to attract a whole new generation of adults to the wonders of life with wine. For more information, visit the national site at www.winebrats.org/.

Oct. 15, 2001

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