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| Creative Cookery |
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LAMB CHOPS WITH BOURBON-ZINFANDEL SAUCE (U.S.)
A couple of days ago, my cooking buddy Jim Holmes and I were talking about a
great pork tenderloin dish that I enjoyed at Lilly's in Louisville, made of
tender pork smoked over "fruitwoods soaked in Bourbon" and served with "a
Zinfandel reduction." This item tasted so good in the restaurant that I
couldn't wait to try something loosely based on it at home.
The key to its glory, I reasoned, lies in the simple combination of Bourbon
and Zinfandel, both of which have similar-only-different flavors attributable
at least in part to oak. I figured everything else wouldn't matter much, as
long as I could find ways to highlight and balance both flavors in a
grilled-meat dish.
So, with no pork around but a quartet of fat lamb loin chops in
the fridge, I put on my Crazed Chef toque and started inventing. Early
in the morning, I put the lamb chops in a gallon-size Ziploc bag with two
smashed garlic cloves and about 1/4 cup of Kentucky Bourbon (Wild Turkey, for
the record) and left the meat marinating in the Bourbon and garlic all day.
Occasionally I'd wander by and give the bag a shake and a turn, just for the
magic of it.
A little before dinner time, I started a charcoal fire, using some fancy
charcoal I bought a while back that has particles of hickory wood
built right into the briquettes. Gave it plenty of time to burn down to a
solid gray ash, then put the grill on to get red-hot (so it would leave nice
grill marks). Took the chops out of the marinade, patted them dry, and threw
them on the grill over direct heat, top on the Weber kettle, all vents wide
open.
While the chops were grilling (a total of eight minutes for 1-inch chops,
turned once), I put the leftover marinade (it only amounted to a tablespoon
or so) into 1/2 cup of Zinfandel (Topolos 1994 Sonoma). Whacked two garlic
cloves into thin slices, sauteed them in a little olive oil in a small
skillet, and as soon as they started to brown, poured in the wine-marinate
mix and let it boil over high heat until it was reduced to a couple of
tablespoons of a syrupy, dark-purple and very aromatic liquid. Painted it on
a serving plate, popped the four finished chops on top, and served. Voila!
For a side dish, I chopped arugula and Parmigiano and just a skosh of butter
over hot spaghetti, to accomplish a veggie and a starch course in a single
dish. It made a great accompaniment, and the lamb chops were perfect with
the rest of the Zinfandel.
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