Nigel Lelew on Wine

If you look at the history of Californian wine production it really is a wonder that they have made it at all. It all started back in the mid 1800's when the immigrant community started to realise that the climate and the soil were ideal for growing grapes and making wine.

Things went well to start with and by the end of the 19^th century California was a major producer in North America and winning awards internationally. But then disaster struck. The grapevine killer bug phylloxera struck and by the turn of the century a huge replanting exercise was going on to replace the damaged vines.

So just as the wine industry was beginning to get back onto its feet from that, along came Prohibition. Not exactly the recipe for growth in an industry whose product has just become illegal!!!. So during Prohibition everything stopped as far as making wine was concerned ... well legally anyway!!!!

Then when Prohibition was lifted, the depression and the second world war happened with impeccable timing! Things, then, did start to pick up again and with a few decades of relative calm, the wine industry has established itself as a force in the global wine trade.

But the disasters haven't finished yet. Phylloxera is back I'm afraid. But California is resilient and will bounce back from this latest setback. Well that’s the history ... what of the wines we can expect.

California grows all the major international grape varieties. For the whites, Chardonnay is the star of the show. Thankfully the love affair between Californian Chardonnay and oak has waned slightly, in common with much of the world. Now theres a good balance between fruit flavours of the grape, and a leaner more subtle oakiness ... and we'll see a great example of that later in the tasting.

Other whites which are around in California are Riesling and good ones at that ... we talked about that last month ... Sauvignon Blanc is also here, favouring a fresh grassy style over the slightly oaked smokey styles of Sauvignon Blanc of some years ago. And a favourite white grape variety of mine is being grown here too ... the wonderful apricot peach Viognier grape ... makes a great summer wine when chilled.

For the reds there are two red grapes which I really must mention. The first is Zinfandel ... a variety which is gaining serious interest in California ... not for the sometimes weak whites and blush wines which have borne the Zinfandel label ... but for the rich deep reds which true Zinfandel should be ... and the second is the classic Burgundy grape Pinot Noir. California has found that conditions there are ideal for producing great Pinots…not something that can be produced everywhere.

There's also the usual array of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In fact California is talking about a Bordeaux style classification system ... the Americans have sniffed out a good marketing approach I think! Why else would they copy the French!

The range of reds is big ... all the Rhone Valley varieties are there…theres some of the Italian varieties here ... and we can't forget what is set to be the next rising star ... Tempranillo…the grape of Spanish Rioja.

So despite California's chequered history in the vineyard ... they've come through almost against the odds ... to produce a wide variety of wines ... characterised by a leaner and fresher style of Chardonnay, good Bordeaux style wines from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and brilliant Burgundy style wines made from Pinot Noir ... and don't forget to look out for Californian Tempranillo ... Ellie …that’s California in a nutshell!

The Tasting

Well I've brought along a couple of bottles of Californian wine this morning, one red and one white so we can see what Californian wine is all about ... well these two bottles anyway!!!

So lets get underway with the white ... It had to be really!!! ... It’s a wine made from the darling of Californian grapes ... Chardonnay ... it’s a 1996 Bonterra Chardonnay.

Colour

Just look at the golden colour ... you can almost see the sunshine in the colour can't you! Doesn't that cheer you up on a dull day like today

Aroma

In with the nose ... Theres some soft fruit in there ... but actually its masked by some unusual coconut and vanilla aromas ... its unusual ... but invites you to take a glug ... so lets do that

Taste

Pineapple and vanilla ... it just fills the mouth with a smooth creamy feel ... and then at the end theres some floral notes ... that’s a Chardonnay that’s a little unusual ... and isn't it good

So that’s 1996 Bonterra Chardonnay which is widely available at places like Waitrose and Tesco at £7.99. It really is worth trying a bottle.

So to the second wine this morning ... we talked about how good California was at producing Pinot Noir ... well heres the chance to try one. This one is 1997 Redwood Trail Pinot Noir and it won't be disappointing either ... so lets get on with this one

Colour

It’s a translucent vibrant red ... just as we'd expect from Pinot Noir

Aroma

What do you think Ellie ... theres some cherry fruit in there and do you get the vanilla/mint from the oak too ... so lets take a glug

Taste

The cherry fruit from the aroma comes through ... its full in the mouth ... and then theres that oaky edge to the taste ... and the taste is long with a great smooth finish

So that's 1997 Redwood Trail Pinot Noir. A full fruity flavoured Pinot Noir with some obvious oak flavours ... a great Californian wine ... I'm tempted to say a classic ... from Waitrose at £5.99 ... if you're planning to have salmon in the near future team it up with this wine ... who says red wine doesn't go with fish ... its brilliant!!!!

Next Month

What are we up to next month ... Lets soak up a little Spanish sun while we tuck into tapas and a glass of classic Spanish wine ... yep we're off to look at the wonderful strawberry fruited wine that is Rioja ... and I'm certainly looking forward to it.