Nigel Lelew on Wine



 

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Haselmere Herald
Syrah and Shiraz
© by Nigel Lelew
The red grape variety that helps to produce some of the Rhone valley's deep, dense, spicy reds and Australia's version of the same wines masquerades under two different names. Depending on where you are in the world Syrah or Shiraz grapes give a huge kick of peppery spice to a wine. So much so that Shiraz or Syrah varietals or blends have that distinctive spicy taste that is a real giveaway to the identity of a wines' base grape variety.

It has the advantage of being well-known in both classic French wines and in New World Australian wines too. The difference, apart from its name, is that the French tend to worship their Syrah, while the Australians use their Shiraz as a work-horse, driving their wine industry forward. Indeed, it is the most planted grape variety in Australia.

In the Rhone valley where blending a number of grapes in a wine is standard practice, Syrah plays its part in the character of wines like Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas, imparting spice and density of colour.

In Australia it is used either to make Shiraz varietals or blended with its particular Aussie partner of Cabernet Sauvignon, to give a wine with both fruit and spice. Indeed this is the signature blend of Australia.

Elsewhere in the world, Shiraz/Syrah hasn't really been embraced. That’s surprising when you consider the grapes' pedigree and its success in both the French and Australian industries. There are pockets of the grape elsewhere in the world but nowhere seems to be ready to whole-heartedly embrace the grape yet the way the French and Australians have ... long may their embrace continue!

So to recommend a couple of Shiraz wines. Well the first is an Australian Shiraz varietal which is a wonderful textbook example of what the Australians can do with this grape. Hardy's 1995 Barossa Valley Shiraz has the characteristic deep dark dense red colour. Pour some into the glass, give the glass a swirl and the aroma will come to meet you ... an aroma of pepper spice and soft mint against a background of soft red berry fruit. Take a glug of the wine and in the mouth theres a big burst of spicy mint that gives way to a long finish of fruit. If you're looking for a big red that accompanies the barbecue season, then get along to Safeway and spend £6.99 on this brilliant red.

My second wine this month is a little bit of a cheat, but it’s a particular favourite of mine. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz is a blend that Australia have made one of its signature pairings, so it’s a great excuse to recommend Hardy's 1997 Nottage Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz. Pouring some of the wine into the glass, its not as deep or dense as its varietal cousin. The aroma is dominated by the traits from the Cabernet in the blend, blackcurrant with some smokey spice notes from the Shiraz. When you take a glug of this wine the first sensation in the mouth is blackcurrant as you'd expect from the aroma, but that’s quickly followed by a slug of pepper spice which gives a wonderful kick to the finish which lingers. Safeway have this masterpiece at £5.49 ... in fact go and get a bottle of both wines, a selection of red meat cuts and some charcoal and firelighters and I give you perfection!

If you have any comments or questions please e-mail me at nigel@vinrouge.co.uk

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