© Andy Abramson The bistro is the creation of a fine chef who operates a very upscale spot next door called appropriately Cote Rotie. The major difference is the price and the decor. The cooking is the same, only the presentation differs. The style is pure Lyonaise Bouchon or Paris bistro. Prompt service, well dressed wait staff and excellent cooking. Needless to say the by the glass list of twelve winesmakes choosing very difficult. The two reds a St. Joseph 1997 from the Cave de Saint Desirat and the utterly exotic Cote Rotie from E & D Duclaux are exhilerating. Coming north means the wines and the cooking styles totally change, even if the grapes remain the same. With Lyon being the center of gastronomie, everything goes up a few notches. The onion tarte compote with warmed chevre is rich and filling on its own. With the 1997 Cave de Saint Desirat St. Joseph it is sublime. The bouquet of the pure Syrah red is total perfume of black pepper spice to the nose. On the palate it is pure velvet. The layers of blackpepper, blueberries, tar and plums are dazzling. I have not had a St. Joseph this young that tates this good in many years sine the very fine 1989 Blachon at Charlie Trotters in Chicago with my good friend Jim Curl back in 1993. Smashing. The Guinea hen with rosemary that is served with creamy puree of mashed potatoes ad creme fraiche is well matched by the 1997 Duclaux Cote Rotie. The very well made wine is young, but even in its youth it shows greaat class and elegance. It is more delicate on the nose. Where the perfume of the St. Joseph is spicy and racy, the bouquet is sweet and long. The complexity of the nose which is full of sweet blackberries is so enticing. It is almost Aussie like in its precosiousness, just enticing you to open up and swallow all that it has to offer. This wine is seductive with a velvet palate rich delivery of ripe plums, blueberries, chewy cherries, jammy raspberries, pepper and just a hint of bacon fat. On the finish the herbacious green and black olives are there but the fruit is so rich they are just poking through. Lunch ends with chocolate apple eclairs and French press coffee. Just roll me out the door but not too far, I want to come back soon. Andy
To contact Andy Abramson, write him at aabramson@compuserve.com. Back to Andy's Road Reports index page
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