Petit Grain non-vintage Muscat-de-St.-Jean-de-Minervois ($6.99)
Bright gold in color, with a heady aroma of ripe, juicy grapefruit touched with the faintest whiff of volatile acidity, acceptable in a dessert wine. Honey sweet flavor, sugary but not sticky, with the sweetness balanced by citric-tart grapefruit. A little short in the finish, but a pleasant dessert wine. Importer: Val d'Orbieu Wines, Dallas. (Jan. 21, 1996)

Seppelt non-vintage "Trafford" Barossa Valley (Australia) Tawny Port ($12.99)
Clear, dark reddish-amber. Rich walnut and stone-fruit aromas jump out of the glass. Very sweet, with walnuts and golden raisins and a hint of cocoa on the palate, pulled together with lemony acidity that lends sufficient structure to keep the frankly sticky sweetness from cloying. More like a cream Sherry than a Port, but either way, it's a heck of a warming dessert wine. Importer: Australian Wines Inc., Atlanta. (Jan. 3, 1996)