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Green Point Green Point 1994 Brut ($22.99)
Another excellent candidate for pre-Millennial enjoyment is this fine sparkling wine from South Eastern Australia, produced in the Yarra Valley of Victoria by Moët & Chandon. Sold in Australia as "Domaine Chandon," it uses the Green Point label for U.S. export to avoid confusion with Chandon's Napa property.

Made from the traditional Champagne cuvé of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it's a clear straw color with a lasting stream of tiny bubbles. Delicious aromas of apples and pears add a tasty whiff of milk chocolate. Rich and creamy on the palate, tart apples dominate a tart, full-bodied flavor that lasts into a long, clean finish. Priced competitively with non-vintage Champagnes, it's a credible alternative to the French and significantly better than the Napa Chandon, or for that matter, than any California sparkler I've tried. U.S. importer: Old Bridge Cellars, San Francisco. (Dec. 1, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Works surprisingly well with a hearty but mildly spiced chicken tortilla soup.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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