Cool night, a little too changeable for grilling, herbs coming on strong in the garden, and a small boneless, tied lamb-leg roast on sale at the grocery prompted a Breton-style lamb braise for tonight's dinner, and we (me, wife, cats) were all very pleased with the result.

It's an easy procedure, too.

I took a 1.5-pound rolled, tied boneless lamb roast and poked lots of garlic slivers into it with a sharp knife. Browned it all over in olive oil in a heavy dutch oven, then poured off the excess oil. Pour in 1/2 cup chicken broth, 1/4 cup leftover dry red wine, four chopped anchovies, several sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer covered over medium-low heat for 45 minutes, turning occasionally. Toward the end, remove the cover and raise the heat to reduce the liquid to a thick glaze. Slice and serve.

With mashed garlic potatoes and a salad of fresh mixed weird greens from the garden, it made a heckuva meal, and the lamb went supoibly with the ripe berry-flavored Rabbit Ridge Zinfandel.