BLUEFISH ON A BED OF FENNEL (ITALIAN)

Slice a fennel (finocchio) bulb into thin vertical slices, and sautee them with plentiful minced garlic and black pepper in a little olive oil -- or in this case, I used a little leftover bacon fat. After the finocchio starts to wilt, add a small amount of water, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes until it's quite limp. Remove the cover, raise the heat, and boil off any remaining liquid, stirring frequently until the finocchio starts to brown. Push it aside to make room for a boneless bluefish fillet, skin side down; cover and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes or until the fish is just done.

An exceptional, but pricey wine match: E. Guigal Condrieu, a fine white Rhone.