Tempted by an excellent fresh red snapper fillet last night, I fashioned a dish that I fancy to be in the Provence style ... more or less.

Chop fine: one medium green pepper, one-half medium onion, two scallions, one large celery rib, one large clove garlic and enough fresh ginger to make 1 teaspoon. Sautee it all in good olive oil until it's soft and starting to brown, then stir in 1 cup fresh plum tomatoes, skinned and chopped, and simmer for a minute or two. Add 1/3 cup white wine, 1/3 cup water, a squirt of fresh lemon juice, and cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste. Let simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. It should shed much of its liquid to make a thick, chunky sauce. Taste for seasoning, then gently place about 1 pound of fresh red snapper fillet (skinned and cut into four or five serving pieces) on top of the sauce. Cover, and simmer over low heat for about 10 minutes, turning the fish occasionally, until it's just done.

I served it with a salad, brown Basmati rice and crusty Italian ciabatta bread, and it went very well with a modest Chardonnay. Beer lovers couldn't go wrong to match it with a good pale ale or Czech/German Pilsener.